Russia's dazzling metropolis of Moscow is now part of the Olympus for top gastronomy.For the first time, restaurant experts from the French gourmet bible Michelin stars in the largest European city.The chefs also have problems.
Russia's national cuisine sees itself after years of struggle for international recognition.The famous soup Borschtsch, Pelmeni and Boeuf Stroganoff are a long time ago.Now the Feinschmecker-Nation France with its red restaurant guide "Guide Michelin" is celebrating the gastronomy in the largest country in the world for the first time.
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"The Russian capital is a culinary jewel that reveals a famous variety of national and international cuisine," says Gwendal Pullennec, the international director of the Michelin leaders, in Moscow.The red French restaurant guide Michelin honored top chefs for the first time - and immediately honored nine restaurants with at least one star.
The professional testers have worked anonymously for five years, such as the quality of the products, aroma and taste, says Pullennec.Russia is now the 35.Land with a "Michelin Guide"."Twins Garden" of the twins Iwan and Sergei Beresuzki was awarded the best place.The brothers speak of a "historical event" for Russia."Moscow is now on par with other world metropolises," says Iwan Beresuzki.
His brother and he now not only have two Michelin stars, but also a green star as a organic restaurant and an honor for the best service.The chef Artjom Jestafiev ("Artest bosses Table") also has two stars).One star each goes to Anatoli Kasakow ("Selfie"), Jewgeni Wikentjew ("Beluga"), David Hemmerlé ("Grand Cru"), Wladimir Muchin ("White Rabbit"), Jekaterina Aljochina ("Biology"), Alexej Kogaj ("Sachalin") and Andrej Schmakow ("Savva").
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For Vladimir Muchin from the "White Rabbit" restaurant, this is a longing for a long and not easy way."It is a recognition for Russian cuisine, for me and my team a knighthood, a step, a motivation that we develop even further," says the 38-year-old overjoyed.
He recalls that at Soviet pages among the communists nationwide was prepared with strictly regulated standards nationwide - without creativity.His goal is today to make Russian cuisine internationally known.The restaurant has long been the first address in Moscow for everyone who likes Russian cuisine in a modern presentation.
In Muchin, for example, braised white cabbage meet a creamy sauce with a red caviar or forest mushrooms on cod."We live very much from seasonal products," he says.He annoys him that there has been a Russian embargo against food from the EU for years."I think it's bad that I can't buy French cheese here," says the cook, who also learned in France.
Import ban for meat, dairy products and fruit
Russia's President Vladimir Putin has prohibited the import of meat, dairy products, fruits and vegetables - in response to EU and the USA's sanctions against the country because of its aggressive politics in Ukraine.However, many Russian farmers have now learned to produce cheese like in Italy or France, says Muchin.The search for good ingredients is elaborate overall because of the import ban.Overall, however, there is nothing to be felt in Russia of deficiency economy, such as the Soviet pages.
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"We now have some private farmers who have carrots, tomatoes, cabbage and everything we need without growing pesticides and organically as it should be for the kitchen of this quality," he says.It was long like "Russian Roulette" to find reliable suppliers."The success of a restaurant depends 70 percent on the good quality of the products," says Muchin.
Moscow, the largest city in Europe, relies on passionate and innovative cooks.Mayor Sergej Sobjanin sees good Russian cuisine alongside the sights such as the Red Square with the Kremlin as a magnet to attract visitors from all over the world."Through the Guide Michelin, our city shows the tourists and the mosquitoes themselves again in a different way," he says.After temporary closure because of the Corona pandemic, the bars in the metropolis with their more than 12 million inhabitants are again jam-packed.
15.000 gastronomic facilities in Moscow
In the past few years, several food courts in huge market halls have opened in the capital, in which Sushi is available from Sushi to Uzbek and Caucasian cuisine to pizza.30 years after the collapse of the Soviet Union, Moscow is now the first city with Michelin stars in the field of the first communist state in the world, says Sobjanin.The city had long since left into a new era and today I have more than 15.000 gastronomic facilities.
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But it is also clear that the vast majority of the Russians eat in the stars that are now excellent with the Michelin stars.Monthly wages are at a few hundred euros, pensions converted around 200 euros.However, the head of the Michelin leader Pullennec emphasizes that there is something in the new restaurant guide for every wallet.Moscow offers a good price-performance ratio in an international comparison-15 restaurants in which a meal was the equivalent of less than 25 euros was praised.